Learn how to extend your kitchen cabinets to the ceiling with our step-by-step guide. Fill in that empty space and give your kitchen that high-end, custom look!
When we selected the RTA (ready-to-assemble) cabinets for our kitchen renovation, I knew I wanted to extend them to the ceiling. I extended the kitchen cabinets in our previous house to the ceiling as well (see that small kitchen renovation here). They were “standard” height kitchen cabinets, which are 30″ tall. With 8′ ceilings, that typically leaves about a foot at the top of the cabinets to the ceiling. It turned out beautifully, but that 12″ gap was a lot to fill in.
This go around, my goal was to get the cabinets as close to the ceiling as possible so there wasn’t as much of a gap to fill. Personally, I also think it makes the cabinets look a little more high-end and custom, like the crown was meant to be there. Don’t get me wrong, I love how our previous kitchen turned out! But I had to build up the trim on the tops of the cabinets quite a bit to get it to look correct and not just like I had stacked a box up there. Since we had the opportunity to start from scratch this time, we went for the extra tall cabinets. The RTA cabinets we selected are 36″ tall, which left just a 6″ gap between the top of the cabinet and ceiling. Not only did we gain an extra shelf in each cabinet, but it made extending them to the ceiling that much simpler!
All that said, whether you’re working with a large gap or small gap, the process is the same to extend them to the ceiling. And you’ll be so happy with the results! It really does give your kitchen that high-end, custom look.
Alternative Method to Extend Kitchen Cabinets to the Ceiling
In our previous kitchen, I used drywall to extend the cabinets to the ceiling. Since the gap was larger, it was a more budget-friendly option at the time than using 1x12s or plywood. I did have to mud and tape the corners, but we saved a ton of money and you’d never know the difference [see that method HERE]! This time, I changed things up and used pre-primed 1x6s. It’s still a very budget-friendly project, especially since the gap is just 6″, rather than 12″. And you don’t have to worry about any mudding or taping. Overall, I see most people use real wood to extend kitchen cabinets to the ceiling. But I wanted to share the drywall method as well in case you’re looking for the most budget-friendly option!
Alright, let’s get to it.
How to Extend Kitchen Cabinets to the Ceiling
**Side note – we’re still in the middle of renovating this kitchen, so the crown is not yet painted and there are a few pieces we have to add once the backsplash is in. But I’ll update photos once it’s all finished up!
- Miter Saw – mine is available on Amazon and Lowes (check both for best price)
- Brad Nailer with 1 1/4″ and 3/4″ Brad Nails
- Coping Saw
- Tape Measure
- Hammer + Nail Set (optional but can be helpful)
- Right Angle Drill Bit (optional but helpful for tight spaces)
- Speed Square
- Paintable Caulk
- Wood Filler
- Ladder (this multi-position Gorilla ladder is da bomb)
- 2×2 Furring Strips
- 1 x 6 Boards (or larger, depending on the size of the gap above your cabinets. You could also use 3/4″ plywood ripped down to the correct width)
- Crown Molding – we used 4 1/2″ Primed MDF Crown from Home Depot. I can’t link the exact one, but that’s the size we went with.
- Additional Trim (optional) – we used both of these to stack with the crown: Reversible Flute Tinytrim Moulding and Basswood Panel Moulding
- Primer (if using raw wood)
- Paintable Trim Caulk
- Paint – our cabinets are painted with Sherwin-Williams Urethane Trim Enamel in the color Shiitake, SW 9173.
1. Measure Your Space
Start by measuring the distance between the top of your current cabinets and the ceiling to determine what size lumber and crown molding you need. Don’t worry about getting a perfect fit. It just has to close the gap enough to give the crown molding a place to attach on the bottom. For example, I used 1x6s which left about a 1/2″ gap between the top of the board to the ceiling. Then the crown molding covers that small gap.
By using dimensional lumber (1×6, 1×8, 1×10, etc), you save yourself a ton of time ripping boards down to width. However, another good option is to use plywood and rip it down to the correct width. Make sure it matches the thickness of your cabinet face frames and boxes (typically 3/4″) so the extension goes straight up from the existing cabinets. I recommend pricing out dimensional boards versus plywood to see if there’s a significant difference. Both are great options to close the gap, depending on your budget and time.
2. Install 2×2 Blocking
Install 2×2 blocks along the top of your cabinets and ceiling. These will give you something to attach the extension boards to. It’s not super critical how long you cut each 2×2, but you want them to be long enough to give you a good amount to screw into. I cut shorter 2×2 blocks to 4″ and placed them on each end along the fronts of the cabinets. I cut longer 2×2 blocks to 10″ for the sides of the cabinets. That just seemed simpler than cutting two small blocks – it also saved on screws to attach them to the cabinets.
Use 2″ screws to drive them into the tops of the cabinets (make sure 2″ screws won’t puncture through your cabinets, but that is the size that worked for us). Since we were working with that small 6″ gap, we used a right angle driving bit to drive the screws.
Once you have all the 2×2 blocks in the cabinets, attach 2×2 blocks to the ceiling. We found the best method to do this was to use a small speed square and scrap 2×4 block. Make sure you cut the scrap 2×4 perfectly square, then line the speed square and scrap block up with the back of the 2×2 that you attached to the cabinet. That will give you a perfectly straight line up to where the 2×2 needs to be attached to the ceiling.
3. Attach the 1×6 Boards
Once you have all the 2×2 blocks in place, attach the boards to close the gap, ensuring they are flush with the front and outside edges of the cabinets. Cut outside corners at a 45° miter so they meet seamlessly. Cut inside corners straight and overlap them at the joint. We used 2 1/2″ brad nails to attach the 1x6s to the 2x2s, and they are nice and secure – saves time and is easier than driving a bunch of screws!
4. Attach the Crown Molding
Starting at one end of the kitchen, install the crown molding. I like to measure a few pieces at a time, do a dry-fit, trim as necessary, install, then do the next section. Use a brad nailer and 1 1/4″ nails to secure the molding in place. Attach it to the extension boards at the bottom and ceiling at the top to finish off the tops of the cabinets.
I tried out the Kreg Crown-Pro jig for the first time on this project [available at Amazon HERE or Lowes HERE]. I’ve done crown molding without a jig as well, but it was nice to have the setup for each cut right in front of me (it’s written and pictured on the jig). It was also nice to have more surface area to hold the crown against during each cut.
Overall, I’m somewhat split on it. Can you successfully do crown molding without it? Of course. Was it handy to have? Yeah. And I did end up using it the whole time. I could see it being really helpful if this is your first time doing crown molding. But it’s totally up to you if you want to use it or go the more traditional route.
I know a lot of DIYers skip this, but coping your inside corners is 1000% worth the trouble. It gives you such a nicer joint at the inside corners. If you’ve never coped crown before, here are some excellent videos that break it down:
5. Additional Trim
We added an additional piece of trim underneath the crown molding for an extra little somethin’ somethin’. There are tons of options for smaller trim that you can stack with the crown to get the style you’re going for! We added a piece of this Reversible Flute Tinytrim Moulding below the crown molding, as well as this Basswood Panel Moulding along exposed sides of the cabinets to hide the seam between the cabinet and extension boards (the 1x6s in our case).
6. Fill, Caulk, and Sand
Once all the crown and any additional trim is in place, fill the nail holes with wood filler. Then caulk along the seams between trim and between the trim to the extension boards, outside corners, and inside corners. Use a paintable caulk. You want to use caulk in the seams, rather than wood filler, because it’s flexible. Wood filler will crack right away as things start to settle. The caulk will flex a bit so you won’t end up with cracks along all the joints.
After the wood filler dries, sand the areas until it’s smooth and even. There should only be wood filler left right in the nail hole – any wood filler on the trim will show through as a weird texture spot once you paint.
7. Prime and Paint
Apply a coat of primer to any raw wood. We used mostly pre-primed boards, but we did have to prime the little fluted trim that we added along the bottom of the crown molding. Once the primer is dry, paint the extensions and molding to match your existing cabinets. Our cabinets are painted with Sherwin-Williams Urethane Trim Enamel in the color Shiitake, SW 9173. I HIGHLY recommend their urethane trim enamel for cabinets. I’ve used it in two kitchens, a few kitchen islands, bathroom vanity, and a few dressers for the kids that see a lot of wear and tear. It dries extremely hard, very durable, and self-leveling as you paint. In my experience, it’s worth every penny!
8. Final Touches
After the paint has dried, use caulk to fill any remaining gaps between the crown molding and the ceiling. This will create a seamless transition and prevent dust from settling in the gaps (we haven’t done this since we haven’t painted yet).
I’ll share finished shots of the kitchen once we get there. But how about that crown, huh?!? I can’t believe how much of a difference it made already! The cabinets just look more complete and the whole room feels taller.
We can almost see the finish line on this whole accidental kitchen remodel 😂 Boy, it’s exciting!
| Tylynn |
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