Plans and step by step instructions to build a simple planter box for your home.
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I’ve wanted to build a set of easy DIY planter boxes for way too long – one of those projects that you keep putting off and think “oh I’ll get to it. I’ll get to it. I’ll get to it.” And then, suddenly, it’s been 3 years. It was time to move them to the top of the list!
These DIY planter boxes are quick, easy and a fraction of the cost of other large planters. Build them for a front porch, next to the garage, back patio, or anywhere you want to add some character. We love them on the front porch. They add just the right amount of warmth and make the front door so inviting and friendly.
Enjoy the plans and don’t forget to tag me @terrace.place if you build a set! I’d love to see them.
The lumber and cut lists for this DIY console table are available for purchase. Your purchase also includes a downloadable PDF of the plans. If you prefer, the plans are available for free in the post below – you simply have to calculate the lumber and cut lists yourself.
DIY Planter Boxes$1.99
To keep the cost down, I used cedar fence pickets for the planter boxes. Standard fence pickets are 19/32″ x 5 1/2″ x 6′. I ran each one through the table saw to rip them in half before building. For the cleats, I cut two half fence pickets at 15-1/4″ and then ripped them in half again on the table saw for a total of four 1/4 fence picket cleats. If you do not own a table saw, you can purchase all 1x3s and 1x2s (for the cleats) to build them. The 1x3s are more expensive, so I reserved them for just the legs and trim. If you use 1x3s, the dimensions are slightly different. Adjust the spacing on the slats as necessary.
Position the top slat on the 1×3 legs so that it is flush with the top of the legs and has a 19/32″ gap on each end. Use a scrap fence picket as spacers on each end of the slat to ensure the spacing is correct (so the sides will fit together in Step 3). Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails to attach the slat to the legs (two brad nails per end).
Once the first slat is attached, use scrap 1x3s (or any 1x boards) as a spacer for the next picket. Again, use wood glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails to attach it. Repeat for all 6 slats.
Build the second side using the same method.
Repeat the same process from Step 1 to build the third and fourth sides.
Attach the cleats to the fourth slat with wood glue and 3/4″ brad nails. Position them so they are flush with the bottom of that board.
I attached them to the fourth board so the planter pot will just reach the top of the cedar planter and the flowers spill out the top.
Put three of the sides together as shown. Secure the legs together with wood glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails. Place nails every few inches along each leg.
Repeat for the final side.
Space the bottom boards equally along the cleats to form the base of the planter and attach to the cleats with wood glue and 3/4″ brad nails.
Center the top trim boards over the planter and attach with wood glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails.
When the trim is centered, there should be a 5/8″ overhang on all sides.
Stain, paint, or seal to fit your style.
I finished these with satin polycrylic [HERE].
Polycrylic is water-based so it won’t amber the wood at all. However, it is not rated for outdoor use, so I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it for planters. Our planters are under a covered porch and are very protected from the elements, so I wasn’t worried about it. But you may want to consider an outdoor finish if yours will be more exposed.
Now the porch is all set for fall!
Please let me know if you have any questions and I’ll get back to you as soon as possible.
| Tylynn |
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