Build a DIY mobile workbench with space for a table saw with these step-by-step plans.
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I’ve been working on getting my shop in order lately and finally built a couple workbenches. In case you missed it, last week I shared the plans for the new miter saw stand. My goal with the shop is to maximize space, but still be able to park the car in there when necessary. The miter saw stand is a permanent workbench at the back of the shop, but I also put together a DIY mobile workbench. It sits against the side wall when not in use (so the car fits), but I can move it anywhere in the shop when I’m working on a project. I built it around the table saw so it works as an out-feed table when I use the saw, but then I can lower the blade and use the whole table top. Win-win!
** UPDATE 9/24/20 – this update is sponsored by MicroJig
This workbench is HANDS-DOWN the most used table in my shop. I use it every day and assemble every. single. project on this thing. There have been SO MANY times I’ve needed to clamp boards down in the middle of the tabletop, so this week I added some MicroJig dovetail clamps. They’re awesome for those situations when your normal clamps can’t quite reach far enough. I’ve already been using them like crazy, so I highly recommend adding them! See Step 11 for all the details.
- Four 3″ Locking Casters
- Miter Saw
- Circular Saw or Table Saw
- Tape Measure
- Speed Square
- Safety Glasses
- Ear Protection
- 2 ½” Screws
- 1 ¼” Screws
If you want to add the MicroJig Dovetail clamps, you also need:
The lumber and cut lists are available for purchase. Your purchase also includes a downloadable PDF of the plans. If you prefer, the plans are available in the post below – you simply have to calculate the lumber and cut lists yourself. Thank you for your support.
Enjoy the plans!
Assemble the bottom frame as shown below. Use 2 1/2″ self tapping screws through the frame to attach the 2x4s.
Pocket holes are a great option if you don’t want to see the screws from the front of the bench. However, since this is just a workbench, I simply screwed through the frame into the shorter 2x4s.
Attach the side legs to the bottom frame with 2 1/2″ screws. The bottom of the frame should sit flush with the bottom of the legs.
Attach the front and back legs to the frame and side legs with 2 1/2″ screws. I attached the side legs to the frame first and then drove a couple screws through the legs into the narrow side of the front and back legs to secure them together. You can see the approximate location of the screws in the diagram below.
Here’s a top view:
Put the bottom shelf in place on the bottom frame and attach with 1 1/4″ screws. Countersink the screws so they won’t get in the way.
It’s very difficult to put the bottom shelf in later (ask me how I know …), so definitely put it in before attaching the top frame in Step 3.
Build the top frame as shown. Use 2 1/2″ screws to attach the long sides to the supports.
Attach the top frame to the legs with 2 1/2″ screws.
I assembled the frame upside down to get top frame flush with the tops of the legs. Simply flip the bench over, move the new top frame into place, make sure everything is sitting flat on the ground, and attach the legs to the frame. No need to worry about clamping or balancing the top frame in mid-air while you try to attach it!
Assemble the frame for the table saw shelf with 2 1/2″ screws. Place those two center 2×4 supports wherever necessary to support the base of your table saw.
Place the shelf at the appropriate height for your table saw (mine was 11″) and attach to the workbench frame with 2 1/2″ screws.
Here’s a side view:
Use a jigsaw to cut the section for your table saw out of the table top. The dimensions shown work for my table saw. Adjust as necessary.
Attach the 2×4 feet to the legs with 2 1/2″ screws.
Fasten the locking casters to the feet with 1 1/4″ screws. I used washers on each screw since the screw heads were smaller than the holes in the caster wheels. You could also use washer head screws.
Center the tabletop and attach it to the frame with 1 1/4″ screws. There should be a 1 1/2″ overhang around the tabletop where it meets the legs.
Countersink the screws into the particle board so they won’t get in the way of your work.
I added a simple clamp rack along one end once the bench was finished.
Simply attach a small scrap board to the inside of the legs.
To add the MicroJig dovetail clamps, simply route a dovetail along the workbench wherever you want to place the clamps. No need to add any metal track or anything like that!
If you have 1 1/2 HP router (which is what my Ryobi is), start by routing a 1/4″ relief groove. I clamped a 2×4 to the workbench as a guide for the router to make these cuts:
Next, use the MicroJig dovetail router bit to cut the dovetail:
Make sure to cut the dovetail in the center of the 1/4″ relief groove if you had to cut that first. I just left the 2×4 guide in place when I switched from the straight bit to the dovetail bit to make sure I cut along the exact same line.
I added tracks along all four sides of the tabletop:
Once you’ve cut the tracks, the clamps just slide right into place:
I’m not sure how the particleboard is going to hold up to the clamping pressure long-term, but it’s been fine so far. If I run into issues, I’ll replace the top with nicer plywood or something more durable.
If you’re planning to add these clamps, I’d recommend going with a plywood top, rather than the particleboard like I did. It’ll be more durable in the long run.
And there you have it!
Just a heads up – I built this bench to fit my Ryobi table saw. Make sure to measure your table saw and adjust accordingly.
Please let me know if you have any questions and I’ll get back to you as soon as possible!
Thanks for stopping by!
| Tylynn |
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